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Destination Guide Middle East & North Africa
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You are here: Home : Destination Guide : Middle East And North Africa : Tunisia And Libya : Locations

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Tunisia and Libya: Locations

 

Tunisia

Tunis

Tunis is a nice, gentle introduction to North Africa with a Mediterranean feel. It was a French protectorate until the 1950’s and a European influence can be seen in its architecture, and the easy going character of the people. It’s home to the suuq, one of the Eastern world’s best markets. Tunis is neither Arab, African nor European. It is a functional and clean city which mixes the old and new head to head. Top site to visit in the city is Zitouna, a name meaning olive tree which is the main mosque and formerly a centre for learning.

Part of the Tunis region but a good day trip away, Carthage is well worth a visit. Much of its rich Roman history has been demolished, but the museum and ruins of Byrsa are testament to its history. The ruins are spead out, so there's a lot of walking involved. The sites include a child sacrifice spot in Tophet, an amphitheatre in Byrsa and the gigantic Antonine Baths.

Sidi Bou Said, famed as a long forgotten 90's English indie band, is actually an elegant whitewash cliff top village with a touristy culture of cobbled streets and cafes - a pleasant place to lunch from the city.

If ancient history is your bag, the provinical Roman city of Thuburbo Majus, 40 miles from Tunis contains interesting ruins. Zaghouan, The town sitting at the foot of Mt Zaghouan, also contains interesting Roman relics from the days it supplied the ancient city with water.

Cap Bon Peninsula

If you've booked a package deal to Tunisia, chances are you'll be heading here where the sun shines brightly and accommodation is cheap and plentiful. Best avoided if your aim is to be independent and escape western European culture, but if you're happy to muck in with the throngs, it's a good area to go camping. Of all the resort town's in this region, Nabeul is cheap and relaxed, with a nationally renowned market taking place every Friday - perfect to pick up a piece of pottery and other indigenous crafts. El Haouaria contains some Roman Caves, and is one of the only places around where bananas are grown.

Northern Tunisia

The North is the place to go to find remote, uncluttered beaches. Raf Raf and Sidi Ali El-Mekki, both near the city of Bizerte, are hugely popular with Tunisians but beware - western tourism is set to take over this unspoilt land as the next package destination. Tabarka is a great little friendly town with a great beach and Genoese fort where you can get local red coral jewellery. The Roman ruins at Bulla Regia were once underground roman villas, although the site is poorly maintained.

Central Coast

Another area you're more likely to meet Europeans on a cheap package deal than any locals, but away from the beach you can gain some peace amongst the vast olive groves. Tourism is centred around the major city of Sousse, a mass of white concrete hotels. If you like your holiday in your face, this is the place to get in the thick of stalls and bodies intermingled with traditional mosques. Monastir, the historic home of Bourguiba (Tunisia's first President) is one of the most popular resorts in the country. If you're planning to travel on by ferry, you'll probably end up in Sfax, the massive port city which is one of the few cities devoid of tourists. From here you can head to the islands of Ile Gharbi and Ile Chergui off the mainland, great places to chill out and see traditional fishing.

Kairouan

The city of Kairouan is one of the holiest places in all of Islam. It's popular with daily pigrimages by tourists of all kinds and the medina is plagued with Moroccan style touts and hustlers. The main monument here is the Great Mosque, dating originally from the 7th century.

South

Chott el-Jerid

This massive salt lake is dry most of the year, and the surface cracks and shimmers in the heat and light - making this a dazzling spectacle, in a vast site 3 times the size of London! You may even see a mirage, as strange optical effects can be seen in this dreamscape. Only the Oasis towns of Tozeur and Nefta break up the barren salt plains. Tozeur is the place where people pretend to explore the desert, collecting postcards before heading off in their 4 x 4s. However, it's home to a great museum of traditional crafts and a vast palmed Oasis. Nefta is the town nearest Algeria, the place to explore the religion of Sufism - the whirling Dervishes. Around this part of the desert are some spectacular Oasis' - spots of green in a vast wilderness.

Douz

Thought of as 'the gateway to the Sahara', in Douz, the sleepy life centres around the souq, particularly on Thursday, the day of the livestock market. November and December is the time to visit the Sahara Festival where you can experience amazing events like camel racing and desert dog hunting. It's also home to an impressive palm oasis - the largest in the Tunisian desert and home of the Great Dune. A camel ride is not only a must - you'll pretty much be forced into humping it on a visit to Douz. Overnight tours with camels are possible to organise.

Matmata

Matmata is situated in one of the most inhospitable terrains in the whole of Tunisia. In summer the heat can be fierce, and in the winter biting cold. The berbers who live here adapt to the climate in a unique fashion by building their homes underground. In the town you can see many craters and below ground is a two storey family house. The striking white interiors displace the feelings of underground claustrophobia you at first imagine. Matmata was the setting for the Star Wars film, a good one to watch prior to your trip. It is the most visited city in the country and the town can barely cope with the influx of coaches to its tiny boundaries. The surrounding countryside is littered with plastic rocks, abandoned by the original film crew.


Ksour

A ksar is a Berber stronghold of arched structures used for storage and defence and the Ksour region is rich with them. In Medenine they have been resurrected within a tourist market. The village of Metameur near Medenine has one of the oldest arches. Tataouine has some of the most impressive structures, although it's a bane to get to. Here you'll also find the Seven Sleepers graves, measuring 16ft long each; legend has it that the inhabitants bodies grew after their death.

 
image; Ksar building
 

Jerba

The island of Jerba is where Ulysses in Homer's Odyssey stayed with his reluctant crew, drugged by the honeyed fruit (possibly Lotus or Marijuana). It's well developed for tourists, with a great souq on the site of a camel caravan and a grissly 13th century fort. The towns of Midoun and Houmt Souq are geared towards tourism.


Libya

Tripoli

Libya's capital city of Tripoli, known as 'the white bride of the Mediterranean' is the main centre for commerce and culture. With elegant Italian and Turkish influenced colonial buildings, mosques and a funky authentic medina where you can shop without the typical Middle Eastern hustlers, this is one of the most European influenced cities in North Africa. Dating back from the 5th century BC, it's rich in history although few relics have survived the many purges. Top sights include the 1920's Gazelle Fountain, the People's Palace and the Roman period Citadel with its labyrinthian courtyards. The medina in the ancient quarter contains 38 stunning mosques like the marble laden Gurgi Mosque with its tall minaret and many domes. Located on the western Coast, there are limited beaches nearby, although they're not that clean or impressive.

Tripolitania

The Tripolitania region covers the north-west of the country where fruit, olive and date palms characterise this land rich in produce. Past Jebel Nafusa is the desert, and here lies Sabratha and Leptis Magna, two fine Roman cities.

The 1st century ruined town of Sabratha, 40 miles from Tripoli, is a must see sight, often compared to Petra in Jordan. With an impressives theatre containing 108 Corinthian columns and set against the backdrop of the sea and beaches, it's rich in history and makes a great day trip from the city.

East of Tripoli are several tourist friendly seaside villages like Tajura, and Khoms, the stop off for Leptis Magna - one of the largest and most well preserved Roman ruins in the world. The city fell into disuse by the 10th Century AD and was covered by sand dunes which protected and preserved it. Excavated in the 1920's the site covers 2 square miles. The area dates back to between 700 and 600 BC and contains marble from Italy and Greece, and stones from Kashmir, Bengal as well as local limestone. Much of the present day site dates from the town peak in popularity in the 2nd Century when the main trades were slavery, gold, ivory and metal goods. Leptis was mined for marble and columns to build statues, mosques and palaces throughout the world. The site features an impressive display of well preserved monuments, bath houses and a swimming pool built by the Emperor Hadrian measuring an impressive 100ft long. The circus just outside of the main site was one of the largest in the Roman world and the only one of its kind in Libya. Described as a "Megalomaniacs dream", the area has been partly flooded but can be discovered by underwater explorations.

Zliten is the oasis town famed for its marabout tombs (turba) and a site for pilgrims, but you'll need a local guide to be able to find them. The ornate Sidi Abdusalam Mosque of stucco ceilings is a great piece of Islamic architecture here.

Jebel Nafusa & Ghadhames

This western mountain range by the Tunisia border is the home of the Berber culture and many examples of their troglodyte architecture can be seen, mainly used as grain stores or goat houses nowadays. Attractive hill towns like Gharyan, Nalut and Yefren offer fantastic views across the Jefara Plain. The oasis town of Ghadhames, the 'Pearl of the Desert' offers a traditional view of desert life, where many of its citizen are descendants of slaves.

Cyrenaica

The east of Libya is similar to Egypt in landscape and character. Its Green Mountains (Jebel Aghdar) makes a refreshing contrast to the abrasive desert. It's full of antique Greek cities (Crete is nearby) and is great for diving.

Benghazi is Libya's second city sitting on the Gulf of Sirt. It's mainly a modern post WWII development, but provides a pleasant base for swimming and exploring the Green Mountains. Good places to visit include Sultan, close to a Fatimid site. The Green Mountains are, as the name suggests, green, luscious and full of rustic charm. The Greek port town of Tocra and Tolmeita with its fantastic desert beaches, are worth a visit if you're passing by.

Cyrene is a well preserved Greek city modelled on Delphi. It offers stunning views of the sea and much richnesses are yet to be excavated. Partially uncovered gems inlcude an ancient Gymnasium, a war ship and numerous carved tombs. The ajacent ancient city of Apollonia sits on the coast as a port and can be visited alongside Cyrene.

The town of Derna has a waterfall flowing year round (a rarity in Libya) and Tobruk's WWII history is evident in its British and German war cemeteries.

Fezzan & the South-East

Fezzan epitomises the beauty of the Sahara Desert and its uninhabited wilderness. Here you can feel you are the first living creature to experience the world. Prehistoric rock art and stunning rock formations abound. You'll need a 4WD vehicle and guide or be part of a Camel Caravan, which doesn't make visiting the back of beyond so cheap. The only major town is Sebha, once home of Colonel Gaddafi and his old school can be visited here. The Wadi al-Hayat region (known as the Valley of Death) is an agricultural area which was once the home of the Garamantes tribe whose history can still be explored here.

Ramlat Dawarda is one of the driest places on earth, but in the middle of the region is a series of 13 lakes appearing like a mirage. The lakes are fed by underground water which is leeched slowly through the sand. Colonel Gaddafi is pumping the water from the lakes a thousand miles North to the coast to give the people of the capital Tripoli fresh water. It's one of the biggest engineering feats ever. These lakes are extrodinary, like the Mavo Lake which changes colour chameleon-like from red to blue or green.

Around the village of Germa are the ruins of Garama and Zinchera, with history dating back to Neolithic times.

The greatest wilderness is to be found in Tibesti, south of Sehba. You need a permit to visit this area. The town of Murzuk is synonymous with death and danger as many early explorer were killed here, however, nowadays it is safer and the rare event of a visitor is more likely to be met with curiousity than impailment. Kufra is the largest town in the area, but little geared to visitors.

Acacus

The Acacus mountains near Ghat contain some of the most extraordinary scenery in the world. The area is a maze of canyon and rocks, and you need an experience Tuareg guide. Only 10,000 year ago the area was a luscious watery terrain of lakes and reservoirs and contains some of the earliest remains of human society. Acacus is one of the most remote spots on earth, it’s a lost prehistoric world containing a plethora of ancient cave art, amidst unbearable heat. The region is known as the Valley of the Shadows.

Never enter the mountain alone, it is easy to get lost and the cave paintings are held under government protection and travelling alone is forbidden. This area is less visited than the South Pole and the land is a total wilderness of endless rugged mountainous terrains. With no roads, you need a vehicle to get around. Take water supplies as well’s with clean water do exists but are few in number.

   
 
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