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Middle East (2 discs) DVD $29.95 buy now
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Great Historic Sites DVD $19.95 buy now
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Tunisia and Libya: Locations |
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Tunisia
Tunis
Tunis is a nice, gentle introduction to North Africa with
a Mediterranean feel. It was a French protectorate until the
1950s and a European influence can be seen in its architecture,
and the easy going character of the people. Its home
to the suuq, one of the Eastern worlds best markets.
Tunis is neither Arab, African nor European. It is a functional
and clean city which mixes the old and new head to head. Top
site to visit in the city is Zitouna, a name meaning
olive tree which is the main mosque and formerly a centre
for learning.
Part of the Tunis region but a good day trip away, Carthage
is well worth a visit. Much of its rich Roman history has
been demolished, but the museum and ruins of Byrsa
are testament to its history. The ruins are spead out, so
there's a lot of walking involved. The sites include a child
sacrifice spot in Tophet, an amphitheatre in Byrsa
and the gigantic Antonine Baths.
Sidi Bou Said, famed as a long forgotten 90's English
indie band, is actually an elegant whitewash cliff top village
with a touristy culture of cobbled streets and cafes - a pleasant
place to lunch from the city.
If ancient history is your bag, the provinical Roman city
of Thuburbo Majus, 40 miles from Tunis contains interesting
ruins. Zaghouan, The town sitting at the foot of Mt
Zaghouan, also contains interesting Roman relics from
the days it supplied the ancient city with water.
Cap Bon Peninsula
If you've booked a package deal to Tunisia, chances are you'll
be heading here where the sun shines brightly and accommodation
is cheap and plentiful. Best avoided if your aim is to be
independent and escape western European culture, but if you're
happy to muck in with the throngs, it's a good area to go
camping. Of all the resort town's in this region, Nabeul
is cheap and relaxed, with a nationally renowned market taking
place every Friday - perfect to pick up a piece of pottery
and other indigenous crafts. El Haouaria contains some
Roman Caves, and is one of the only places around where bananas
are grown.
Northern Tunisia
The North is the place to go to find remote, uncluttered
beaches. Raf Raf and Sidi Ali El-Mekki, both
near the city of Bizerte, are hugely popular with Tunisians
but beware - western tourism is set to take over this unspoilt
land as the next package destination. Tabarka is a
great little friendly town with a great beach and Genoese
fort where you can get local red coral jewellery. The
Roman ruins at Bulla Regia were once underground roman
villas, although the site is poorly maintained.
Central Coast
Another area you're more likely to meet Europeans on a cheap
package deal than any locals, but away from the beach you
can gain some peace amongst the vast olive groves. Tourism
is centred around the major city of Sousse, a mass
of white concrete hotels. If you like your holiday in your
face, this is the place to get in the thick of stalls and
bodies intermingled with traditional mosques. Monastir,
the historic home of Bourguiba (Tunisia's first President)
is one of the most popular resorts in the country. If you're
planning to travel on by ferry, you'll probably end up in
Sfax, the massive port city which is one of the few
cities devoid of tourists. From here you can head to the islands
of Ile Gharbi and Ile Chergui off the mainland,
great places to chill out and see traditional fishing.
Kairouan
The city of Kairouan is one of the holiest places in all
of Islam. It's popular with daily pigrimages by tourists of
all kinds and the medina is plagued with Moroccan style touts
and hustlers. The main monument here is the Great Mosque,
dating originally from the 7th century.
South
Chott el-Jerid
This massive salt lake is dry most of the year, and the surface
cracks and shimmers in the heat and light - making this a
dazzling spectacle, in a vast site 3 times the size of London!
You may even see a mirage, as strange optical effects can
be seen in this dreamscape. Only the Oasis towns of Tozeur
and Nefta break up the barren salt plains. Tozeur is
the place where people pretend to explore the desert, collecting
postcards before heading off in their 4 x 4s. However, it's
home to a great museum of traditional crafts and a vast palmed
Oasis. Nefta is the town nearest Algeria, the place to explore
the religion of Sufism - the whirling Dervishes. Around
this part of the desert are some spectacular Oasis' - spots
of green in a vast wilderness.
Douz
Thought of as 'the gateway to the Sahara', in Douz, the sleepy
life centres around the souq, particularly on Thursday, the
day of the livestock market. November and December is the
time to visit the Sahara Festival where you can experience
amazing events like camel racing and desert dog hunting. It's
also home to an impressive palm oasis - the largest in the
Tunisian desert and home of the Great Dune. A camel ride is
not only a must - you'll pretty much be forced into humping
it on a visit to Douz. Overnight tours with camels are possible
to organise.
Matmata
Matmata is situated in one of the most inhospitable terrains
in the whole of Tunisia. In summer the heat can be fierce,
and in the winter biting cold. The berbers who live here adapt
to the climate in a unique fashion by building their homes
underground. In the town you can see many craters and below
ground is a two storey family house. The striking white interiors
displace the feelings of underground claustrophobia you at
first imagine. Matmata was the setting for the Star Wars film,
a good one to watch prior to your trip. It is the most visited
city in the country and the town can barely cope with the
influx of coaches to its tiny boundaries. The surrounding
countryside is littered with plastic rocks, abandoned by the
original film crew. |
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Ksour
A ksar is a Berber stronghold of arched structures
used for storage and defence and the Ksour region is rich
with them. In Medenine they have been resurrected within
a tourist market. The village of Metameur near
Medenine has one of the oldest arches. Tataouine has
some of the most impressive structures, although it's a bane
to get to. Here you'll also find the Seven Sleepers
graves, measuring 16ft long each; legend has it that the inhabitants
bodies grew after their death. |
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Jerba
The island of Jerba is where Ulysses in Homer's Odyssey stayed
with his reluctant crew, drugged by the honeyed fruit (possibly
Lotus or Marijuana). It's well developed for tourists, with a great
souq on the site of a camel caravan and a grissly 13th century fort.
The towns of Midoun and Houmt Souq are geared towards
tourism.
Libya
Tripoli
Libya's capital city of Tripoli, known as 'the white bride of the
Mediterranean' is the main centre for commerce and culture. With
elegant Italian and Turkish influenced colonial buildings, mosques
and a funky authentic medina where you can shop without the typical
Middle Eastern hustlers, this is one of the most European influenced
cities in North Africa. Dating back from the 5th century BC, it's
rich in history although few relics have survived the many purges.
Top sights include the 1920's Gazelle Fountain, the People's
Palace and the Roman period Citadel with its labyrinthian
courtyards. The medina in the ancient quarter contains 38 stunning
mosques like the marble laden Gurgi Mosque with its tall
minaret and many domes. Located on the western Coast, there are
limited beaches nearby, although they're not that clean or impressive.
Tripolitania
The Tripolitania region covers the north-west of the country where
fruit, olive and date palms characterise this land rich in produce.
Past Jebel Nafusa is the desert, and here lies Sabratha
and Leptis Magna, two fine Roman cities.
The 1st century ruined town of Sabratha, 40 miles from Tripoli,
is a must see sight, often compared to Petra in Jordan. With an
impressives theatre containing 108 Corinthian columns and set against
the backdrop of the sea and beaches, it's rich in history and makes
a great day trip from the city.
East of Tripoli are several tourist friendly seaside villages like
Tajura, and Khoms, the stop off for Leptis Magna
- one of the largest and most well preserved Roman ruins in the
world. The city fell into disuse by the 10th Century AD and was
covered by sand dunes which protected and preserved it. Excavated
in the 1920's the site covers 2 square miles. The area dates back
to between 700 and 600 BC and contains marble from Italy and Greece,
and stones from Kashmir, Bengal as well as local limestone. Much
of the present day site dates from the town peak in popularity in
the 2nd Century when the main trades were slavery, gold, ivory and
metal goods. Leptis was mined for marble and columns to build statues,
mosques and palaces throughout the world. The site features an impressive
display of well preserved monuments, bath houses and a swimming
pool built by the Emperor Hadrian measuring an impressive 100ft
long. The circus just outside of the main site was one of the largest
in the Roman world and the only one of its kind in Libya. Described
as a "Megalomaniacs dream", the area has been partly flooded
but can be discovered by underwater explorations.
Zliten is the oasis town famed for its marabout tombs (turba)
and a site for pilgrims, but you'll need a local guide to be able
to find them. The ornate Sidi Abdusalam Mosque of stucco
ceilings is a great piece of Islamic architecture here.
Jebel Nafusa & Ghadhames
This western mountain range by the Tunisia border is the home of
the Berber culture and many examples of their troglodyte architecture
can be seen, mainly used as grain stores or goat houses nowadays.
Attractive hill towns like Gharyan, Nalut and Yefren
offer fantastic views across the Jefara Plain. The oasis
town of Ghadhames, the 'Pearl of the Desert' offers a traditional
view of desert life, where many of its citizen are descendants of
slaves.
Cyrenaica
The east of Libya is similar to Egypt in landscape and character.
Its Green Mountains (Jebel Aghdar) makes a refreshing contrast
to the abrasive desert. It's full of antique Greek cities (Crete
is nearby) and is great for diving.
Benghazi is Libya's second city sitting on the Gulf of
Sirt. It's mainly a modern post WWII development, but provides
a pleasant base for swimming and exploring the Green Mountains.
Good places to visit include Sultan, close to a Fatimid site.
The Green Mountains are, as the name suggests, green, luscious and
full of rustic charm. The Greek port town of Tocra and Tolmeita
with its fantastic desert beaches, are worth a visit if you're passing
by.
Cyrene is a well preserved Greek city modelled on Delphi.
It offers stunning views of the sea and much richnesses are yet
to be excavated. Partially uncovered gems inlcude an ancient Gymnasium,
a war ship and numerous carved tombs. The ajacent ancient city of
Apollonia sits on the coast as a port and can be visited
alongside Cyrene.
The town of Derna has a waterfall flowing year round (a
rarity in Libya) and Tobruk's WWII history is evident in
its British and German war cemeteries.
Fezzan & the South-East
Fezzan epitomises the beauty of the Sahara Desert and its uninhabited
wilderness. Here you can feel you are the first living creature
to experience the world. Prehistoric rock art and stunning rock
formations abound. You'll need a 4WD vehicle and guide or be part
of a Camel Caravan, which doesn't make visiting the back of beyond
so cheap. The only major town is Sebha, once home of Colonel
Gaddafi and his old school can be visited here. The Wadi al-Hayat
region (known as the Valley of Death) is an agricultural area
which was once the home of the Garamantes tribe whose history can
still be explored here.
Ramlat Dawarda is one of the driest places on earth, but
in the middle of the region is a series of 13 lakes appearing like
a mirage. The lakes are fed by underground water which is leeched
slowly through the sand. Colonel Gaddafi is pumping the water from
the lakes a thousand miles North to the coast to give the people
of the capital Tripoli fresh water. It's one of the biggest engineering
feats ever. These lakes are extrodinary, like the Mavo Lake
which changes colour chameleon-like from red to blue or green.
Around the village of Germa are the ruins of Garama
and Zinchera, with history dating back to Neolithic times.
The greatest wilderness is to be found in Tibesti, south
of Sehba. You need a permit to visit this area. The town of Murzuk
is synonymous with death and danger as many early explorer were
killed here, however, nowadays it is safer and the rare event of
a visitor is more likely to be met with curiousity than impailment.
Kufra is the largest town in the area, but little geared
to visitors.
Acacus
The Acacus mountains near Ghat contain some of the
most extraordinary scenery in the world. The area is a maze of canyon
and rocks, and you need an experience Tuareg guide. Only 10,000
year ago the area was a luscious watery terrain of lakes and reservoirs
and contains some of the earliest remains of human society. Acacus
is one of the most remote spots on earth, its a lost prehistoric
world containing a plethora of ancient cave art, amidst unbearable
heat. The region is known as the Valley of the Shadows.
Never enter the mountain alone, it is easy to get lost and the
cave paintings are held under government protection and travelling
alone is forbidden. This area is less visited than the South Pole
and the land is a total wilderness of endless rugged mountainous
terrains. With no roads, you need a vehicle to get around. Take
water supplies as wells with clean water do exists but are
few in number.
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