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Dress for Female Travellers
For travel in Middle Eastern countries, bringing a headscarf
is highly recommend for women. No matter what your personal
feelings about this custom are, it saves you a lot of staring
and hassling - plus it's more respectful of their culture.
When visiting mosques as a woman or a non Muslim (the ones
you can even visit as a non Muslim), you are required to wear
a headscarf, no exceptions, but you'll win points if you put
it on automatically for respect. The headscarf option may
be of more use in the more rural areas (plus, it doubles as
sun block), as city women tend to dress far more "western".
Don't bring too many tank tops or short sleeved shirts or
shorts, even in summer (Capri pants can be okay in the more
moderate Arab states). Of course, it's your preference, but
if you want to travel as unobtrusively and respectfully as
possible, dress modestly in these countries. Watch what the
local women wear and your trip will go a bit smoother.
For single women travelling alone, it is suggested to bring
a ring that looks like a wedding band, and possibly
a picture of any man that you can refer proudly to as "my
husband". Wearing the pseudo wedding band means "hands
off, no chance". If you don't have children and they
ask "when?" or "why not?" and you don't
want to get into a lengthy discussion of whatever reason you
have, just look slightly wistful and say "Inshallah."
which means "god willing (I'll have some.)" which
gives you a friendly, graceful exit. You can pretty much answer
any question you don't want to answer with "Inshallah!"
It's a great phrase - sort of like "we'll see, sort of,
I don't know, maybe, probably not!".
A Gift is a Helping Hand
It's helpful at times, to have a pack of cigarettes,
even if you don't smoke. If you want to buy something in a
souk, you will be haggling about the price. If you offer a
cigarette to the person selling the thing (if it's a man 9
times out of 10 he'll be a smoker), you start to become more
like a friend than a customer, "Oh, we're just sitting
here, two friends, talking about something I like." Make
up some semi-complicated story - not necessary to be completely
true - "it's for my cousin who is getting married"
for example. Arabs tend to "talk around the point",
while Americans and Europeans are more direct. Sometimes,
offering a cigarette to a persistent male will give you time
for a graceful exit. "Here, please have one. You know,
I really have to be going now. Bye!"
Related and sometimes useful is a bag of small cheap plastic
hair barrettes to hand out to little girls - comes in handy
when you want to take pictures. OR small pieces of candy or
cheap ballpoint pens. Warning, though, if there is a crowd
of kids, they will descend on you - better to use this nicety
if there are only one or two children present. Giving a gift
to a stranger's child will not have the same negative connotations
as in the West.
Staying Safe on the Streets
There may be good reasons these days to avoid looking like
you're from America. To avoid being a target for thieves or
worse, walk confidently at all times, even if you're totally
lost and terrified, pretend you're not. Scope out someplace
safe (bus terminal, gas station, porch of private home with
kids) where you can check a map, ask a question or just get
your bearings. Observe the locals, cross the street when and
where they do - cross with them in a group rather than alone.
If people don't look like they're eating snacks or drinking
coffee while walking in the street, you shouldn't either.
Stay away from crowds, demonstrations, loud or freakish people
or things that just seem deserted and scary. Steer clear of
heavily guarded American embassies, except if you're ducking
in to register, and always steer clear of military-looking
areas.
Taking Photographs
DO NOT TAKE PICTURES OF ANY WOMEN WITHOUT ASKING. If a women
is wearing a headscarf or is Bedouin (facial tattoos), better
to not take her picture at all. Always ask permission first.
Many Bedouins believe taking a photo image of them steals
their soul - it's serious stuff in their culture. Bedouin
men seem not to care and will usually pose handsomely, but
ask anyway. Do not, under any circumstances, take pictures
of obvious military or governmental stuff, or things that
are being guarded by guys with big guns.
Make sure you keep any expensive cameras in cases and preferably
out of view in a bag or rucksack, or at least carried towards
your body rather than in view of wandering hands on the street.
You may actually be suprised that street crime is much lower
in the Middle East than the towns and cities back home (punishment
and discipline is far stricter in all levels of society) but
it always pays to look after your valuables carefully.
Dealing with Persistent Traders
To deal with persistent souvenir hawkers, it's better not
to tease them, harass them back or get angry. They're just
trying to make a living to feed themselves and their family.
Don't offer a lengthy explanation in your native language
of why you don't want the thing, simply say "No, thank
you", preferably in Arabic ("La, shokran"),
firmly but strongly and walk away briskly. Many souvenir hawkers
seem to know many languages, but often they only known a few
appropriate phrases or attention getting questions in that
language, and that's where their knowledge ends. If you try
to say "no-I-know-you-made-it-yourself-it's-very-nice-I-just-don't-want-any-I-already-have-seen-that-crap-in-dozens-of-other-shops-I'm-not-buying-any."
in your rapid-fire speaking voice and alien accent, they might
not understand, and it seems rude, as if you're making fun
of them. "No, thank you." said firmly and clearly
is better and will let them exit to find another victim.
A little politeness and a smattering of a few Arabic words
will earn you dividends one hundred-fold when encountering
the local people in any of the Arab lands. |
