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It is less advisable to travel through Iraq and Afghanistan.
The countries are riddled with landmines, and are struggling
to provide the most basic infrastructure for their inhabitants.
Much of the heritage of both countries has been lost, stolen
or destroyed in their conflicts - the Taliban, for
example, destroyed some enormous statues of Buddhas that were
1500 years old, and the American and coalition bombing of
the last 20 years have wreaked destruction and havoc to people
and landscapes. However, these are countries that have housed
a deep melting pot of different cultures, and the interaction
of these cultures is very exciting. The Hanging Gardens
of Babylon, the Garden of Eden, the Tower of
Babel - archaeologists claim all of these famous structures
may once have existed on the land we now know as Iraq - built
by Mesopotamian kings, described by Greek poets and artists,
and holding an importance to the development of all mankind,
according to the Bible. These countries which are rich in
ancient historical interest, not to mention natural rugged
beauty, demand that we keep a cultural interest alive, even
if it is from a safe distance.
Minimising risk
Most governments strongly advise against travelling to Iraq
and Afghanistan, and go as far as to recommend being
accompanied by reputable guides and armed guards if you must
travel there.
During the last years of Saddam Hussain's dictatorship,
tourists to Iraq were only allowed into the country
in tour groups, or if invited by the government. Following
the recent Gulf war, the country is in turmoil - with the
establishment of a tourist industry probably not the first
thing on the 'to do' list.
Afghanistan hasn't really had any tourists since 1978,
although since the bombings in 2001 there are a few intrepid
backpackers already giving it a try.
The best bet, if you really do want to go, is Hinterland
Travel (12 The Enterdent, Godstone, Surrey, RH9 8EG tel:
01883 743 584 fax: 01883 743 584) in the UK and Bestway
Tours and Safaris in the USA are two travel operators
who run organised tours to these countries. A ten day tour
with Hinterland Travel costs around £1500 ($2200). These
tours are fairly expensive, but in the current situation the
expertise and protection of these companies would certainly
be invaluable.
Government warnings on Iran recommend that you avoid
any large gatherings and keep away from government buildings,
military bases and embassies. Make sure that your documentation
is in order before you leave, and while there, carry identification
with you at all times. Steer clear of the Iran/Iraq border,
and the Iran/Afghanistan border, and travelling overland to
Pakistan is not advisable either. Be very sensitive about
religious customs, and vigilant in your dress.
For up-to-the-minute details on all three countries check
out the Foreign
& Commonwealth Office, the Australian
Department of Foreign Affairs and Trade or the U.S.
Dept of State Bureau of Consular Affairs. Visa applications
should be lodged well in advance of your intended travel date.
Climate
Iran is geographically a vast, arid central plateau,
rimmed by mountain ranges. The country has low rainfall and
a desert climate, although the coast of the Caspian Sea
is much wetter. The coast of the Arabian Gulf is hot,
humid and earthquake prone. The most pleasant times to visit
are March to April and October to November.
Afghanistan is famous for its inhospitable mountains, especially
the great Hindu Kush mountain range which divides the
country. The central highland steppes have dry summers and
cold winters, while the southern deserts are desolate and
blasted by sandstorms. In the north is the fertile foothills
and the majority of the country's agriculture and natural
resources.
The mountains of northern Iraq have cool summers and extremely
cold winters. The central plain and the valleys of the Tigris
and Euphrates have long, hot summers, short winters
and not much rain.
Cash
It can be hard to change travellers' cheques in
Iran, Iraq and Afghanistan. Credit cards are generally not
accepted, and ATM's are rare or non-existent, so make sure
you have enough cash. Iranian shops often prefer to be paid
with American dollars, but the official currency is the Iranian
Rial, although you will probably hear Iranians counting
in toman - the word for ten rial. The currency
of Afghanistan is called the Afghani, and Iraq uses
the Dinar - the value of both are highly unstable.For up to date currency information, check the Currency
Converter.
Dress
Iranian police consider themselves to be protecting the dignity
of the people, and since 1990 have kept computer records of
anyone breaking the dress code. They've been known to enforce
the rules by driving around spray-painting the arms of rogue
T-shirt wearers. From the age of seven women must be entirely
covered, apart from the hands, feet and face. Most wear the
traditional dark coloured cloak (chador) that fastens
under the chin.
In Afghanistan the full cover burqa is still
widely worn by women, while men can be imprisoned for not
having a beard - and kept locked up until one grows! Male
and female visitors to the three countries should wear long
sleeves and trousers, and women should cover their hair and
necks with a big dark coloured headscarf. Visitors should
be aware that a lot of religious and political significance
is attached to dress, and should take great care not to offend.
How strict or relaxed dress issues are in these countries
fluctuates. The best idea is to be very sensitive to the reactions
you receive. It may be necessary at times to buy and wear
the full burqa outfit - especially if you are a woman, and
would like to go into a mosque.
Food
Food in these three countries is cheap - which is just as
well because it is, as a rule, pretty dull. Cafés and
restaurants will usually have very few choices, mainly rice
with meat, meat with rice or rice with rice, although Iraqis
do prepare nice salads and lovely Middle Eastern style mezze
plates if you're lucky. In Iran it is crucial not to take
the food at face value as all of the best food is made within
the home. If you can wangle an invite, look forward to some
amazing combinations of sweet and savoury flavours jazzing
up the meat and rice staples.
Travel
It can be hard to tell which side of the road people drive
on in Iran, and traffic lights, signs and pedestrian crossings
are ignored - so look around a lot, whether you are walking
or driving. Petrol is subsidised by the government so it's
very cheap to get around, but car rental can be expensive.
The metro and bus system in Tehran is notorious for being
incomprehensible - getting around as a pillion passenger on
a taxi bike is the best idea. Shared taxis are a good bet
for long distances or, if you prefer to travel in style, you
could hire a car and driver together (although remember that
you are liable for all of the drivers' expenses for as long
as he is away from home). Attempts at hitching are well received
in Iran - it is common to flag down a vehicle and offer some
cash in return for a lift. Internal flights are incredibly
cheap, but some of the planes are rickety, old Russian built
ones, that may be best avoided!
Where to stay
Adventurous travellers in Iran will be rewarded with charming
old-fashioned places to stay in some very interesting and
scenic locations. In general, these hotels and lodging houses
(called 'mosaferkhanehs') are pretty comfortable.
Air-conditioning is common, postal and telephone services
are available in all of them, and many hotel rooms now have
private bathrooms, refrigerators and televisions. Camping
in Iran is still in its infancy. Several large cities have
a stretch of land with collective tents to rent where campers
and individual caravan owners can stay. These are available
in Tehran, Esfahan, Tabriz and several other towns
in the Caspian region. Some of the old hotels that grew up
around Afghanistan's Hippie Trail - especially those
on Chicken Street in Kabul - are being revamped
as some entrepreneurial Afghanis return with visions of rebuilding
their country, often backed by cash made in the West.
Recent history
Iran
Known as Persia until the 1930's, it is no secret that Iran
has had a tumultuous past. After WWII Iran's monarch, the
Shah, assumed total power of the country, and made brutal
attempts to force it into a more western mould. Iran did modernise,
industrialisation grew, illiteracy reduced, public services
improved, as did the treatment of women. For all that this
sounds positive, the speed of the changes caused problems,
as did the repressive nature with which these changes were
brought about, and the Shah was far from popular. Issues of
corruption as the Shah bought unnecessary arms and accepted
inappropriate development schemes from the West, and got very
rich on the back of petro-dollars while most of the country
got very poor, didn't help his public image. Attempts to ban
the chador failed as many devout women refused to leave their
houses uncovered. After the bloody revolution in the late
1970's, the people backed a return to a very religious way
of life - however, few realised how oppressive the new regime
would be. Ayatollah Khomeini stepped into the Shah's
shoes, initially with the encouragement of much of the West,
but immediately began to turn Iran into an Islamic state with
all the brutality of the Shah. Since Khomeini died in 1989,
Iran has been on a more even keel.
Iraq
The country of Iraq was formed by the British in 1920, after
their occupation of the area during World War I. Part of the
reason that Iraq has experienced so much turmoil this century
is because the creation of Iraq lumped together many different
tribal groups, races and religions. Like Iran, Iraq was a
monarchy until 1958 when it became a republic for ten years
before becoming a dictatorship. From the beginning of the
1970's the government took control of the money being made
from oil, and therefore had control over the distribution
of this wealth through the rest of Iraq's economy. Of the
three countries, Iraq has had most contact with the West -
and this is visible in the availability of alcohol, the profusion
of Western-style entertainment and the amount of women in
employment.
Afghanistan
Of the three countries, Afghanistan has had the least contact
with the West. Also once a monarchy, the Afghani Shah's
own cousin overthrew him and established a Republic. The Republic
was in turn overthrown by the People's Democratic Party
of Afghanistan, which was followed by the ten-year occupation
of the country by the Soviet Red Army. Many Afghanis were
killed or fled, and when trouble in the USSR caused the Russians
to pull out of the country, an Islamic coalition government
took over which made changes towards a stricter Islamic society
with the banning of alcohol and the introduction of the veil
for women. The coalition was doomed to failure, however, as
the tribes began fighting amongst themselves and corruption
was widespread. When a group of educated and militant young
men returned from their refuge in Pakistan, their appeals
to the poor and their devout following of Islam in the face
of Afghanistan's chaotic lawlessness made them initially popular.
These were the infamous Taliban, or 'Students of religious
truth', who swept across the country between '94 and '96,
supported by cash from Western governments which approved
of the Taliban's anti-USSR stance. The existing government
retreated to the north of the country, and the Taliban declared
an Islamic state with severe codes governing every aspect
of life. Following the American bombing of Afghanistan in
2001, to oust the Taliban and break up the fundamental Al
Qaeda followers the government was harbouring, talks were
held in Bonn, and plans were drawn up to establish a democratically
elected government. Elections will be held in 2004.
More information
Destination
Iran
A source of information for travellers about Iran and its
cultural heritage. |
