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Georgia
Tbilisi
Not far from the border with Azerbaijan, in the central-eastern
part of the country, is Tbilisi, Georgia's capital
city. Tbilisi is sited in a very picturesque setting on both
banks of the Mtkvari River in a gorge surrounded by
mountains. It takes its name from the hot springs (tbili
means warm) that are one of the city's main attractions. Most
of its public buildings are located on Rustaveli Avenue.
Between 1992 and 1994, this was the scene of war. There are
few signs of the War of Independence left today, however,
and new scenes are being played out in the theatres on this
street. It's well worth trying to catch a show if you can.
Tbilisi is a bustling European city and the flea
market is a good place to people watch. Here you can
purchase a whole array of strange artifacts cheaply. A good
place to sample the local vodkas and to try something new
- pickled flowers - is a café-bar called 3 Alani,
just off Gorgasali Square. |
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Vardzia
Vardzia in the south of the country, close to the
Turkish border, is a Medieval cave city built into the rocks
above a river. In its heyday it housed 50,000 people, but
it was originally built in the 12th century by King Gorgi
III as military fortifications. There are over 600 rooms,
monk's cells and a church. There are still a few monks living
there who act as guides but they do not speak English, they
will merely prevent you from getting lost. An entrance fee
of six lari ($3.50) is payable but the monks also expect a
tip. |
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Batumi
Batumi is a 19th century subtropical city on the
Black Sea coast in southern Georgia. The water here is
unpolluted and the sand golden, and the beach is excellent.
The city is scattered with palms, Cypress trees, lemon trees,
orange trees and Magnolias. Batumi was once ruled by the Turkish
who ran a successful slave trade out of the city. Today it
is an important port city where oil from Azerbaijan, citrus
fruit, and tea are exported. The main attraction is just outside
of the city - a huge Roman Byzantine fort called Gonio
Sarpi built in a mountainous valley. Batumi is a laidback
seaside city where the mountains run down to the sea. Its
parks, shady avenues, rundown mansions, and coastal drives
offer a relaxed place to stop for a few days.
Armenia
Yerevan
Yerevan is a feast to the eyes. The buildings are built out
of local pink volcanic rock with elaborately carved doors
and facades, overshadowed by the biblical Mount Ararat.
Yerevan, situated in the south-west not far from the Turkish
border, is one of the oldest continuously inhabited settlements
in the world. Make your way around the streets - watch out
for pot holes -and you'll see, among other things, petrol
being sold on the street at a very high price due to the Azeri
blockade. The Genocide Monument dedicated to those
that died and Republic Square bare testimony to the
struggle for independence and land in this region following
the collapse of the U.S.S.R..
The Materadaran library houses the largest collection
of ancient manuscripts in the world. There are many beautiful
examples of highly decorated ancient texts, some as old as
the ninth century. Visit the Vernissage tourist bazaar
to buy Kurdish wares, carpets, and paintings amid an array
of bric-a-brac. There are twenty museums in the city which
should provide enough variety to keep any traveler happy.
When you're hungry go to Khorovadz Street, where every
other shop sells the infamous kebab. 'Khorovadz' means skewered
grilled meat, which is the type of kebab you'll find here.
Dilizhan
Dilizhan is where Armenia's famous mineral water is sourced.
It has been considered a place of healing for a very long
time and the government plans to build spas and ski resorts
in this region. Currently it is a real off the beaten track
destination with few facilities. Nearby to the south, Lake
Sevan has a stunning resort located on its northern shores.
This region was very popular with Russian holidaymakers, unfortunately
today, a lack of real infrastructure means that the lake is
under threat from hydroelectric and irrigation systems which
may have caused irreversible damage by lowering the water
level drastically. Outside of Dilizhan is the Agartsin
Monastery, an example of 10th to 13th century architecture
which was thought to have been a cultural centre.
Azerbaijan
Baku
Baku, the capital city of Azerbaijan, sits atop a desert on
the far eastern side, halfway up the country and close to
the Caspian Sea. It's a lush city thanks to an irrigation
system built by the 19th century owners of now dilapidated
mansions on oleander and olive-lined boulevards, relics of
the last oil boom. In fact there is a real sense of a magical
mystery past. Cool, shady tea houses with gardens and waterways
have earned the seafront the nickname Little Venice.
In the maze of streets and medieval walls of the Old City
you'll find Shirvanshah's Palace, a striking piece
of elaborate Medieval era Middle Eastern architecture. It
contains minarets, a burial chamber, a mosque, and baths.
Archaeological evidence in this part of the city has shown
that Baku is one of the oldest continuously inhabited places
in the country. Climb to the top of the Maiden's Tower
for great views over the city then come out into a world of
brightly colored, Aladdin-style carpet caves where you can
bargain the day away. Next stop: Taza Bazaar, where
you can purchase all sorts of wares including the Azerbaijan
dietary staples of paprika, saffron, and walnuts. |
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Atesgah Fire Temple
The Zoroastrian temple of Atesgah ('home of fire'),
worshipped at for thousands of years, is situated on the Asperon
peninsular in the village of Surakhany - the most easterly
point of the country projecting into the Caspian Sea. Azerbaijan,
rich in natural gas and oil, is also known as Odlar Yourdu
('Land of Fires'). Atesgah Fire Temple was built above
a pocket of natural gas and four flames burn continuously
in its four corners. The flames escaping from the ground on
the peninsula were considered to have divine power by the
Zoroastrians, who were dominant in Azerbaijan in the 17th
century, and also by the Indians who were at the time trading
with the country. As news spread, pilgrims from India followed
the merchants to the peninsular to build these places of worship.
Sanskrit and Hindi inscriptions are evidence of the Indian
connection. |
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Gobustan
Gobustan, 45 miles from Baku, is a famous archaeological
site where Neolithic art adorns the rocks. The 4,000 carvings
depict hunting scenes, dances, and ancient tribal rituals.
Evidence of later art and ritual behaviour is in the form
of a ceremonial stone circle and a Latin inscription.
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