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An hour inland from the Costa del Sol and spectacularly situated
on a rocky outcrop amidst the Serrania de Ronda mountains
is the ancient Moorish kingdom of Ronda.
What's the history here?
The infamous Spanish Inquisition had an HQ in Ronda.
Once the Islamic Moors had been driven out of the country
in the early 16th Century, there began a period of religious
persecution of all non-Catholics which lasted for over 100
years. Fearsome monarchs King Fernando and Queen
Isabella forbade the defeated Moors from using their own
language, ordered them to convert to Christianity and finally
expelled from Spain all Jews and Moors who would not convert.
The Inquisition, under the notorious Grand Inquisitor Thomas
de Tourquemada used horrific methods to exact confessions
of non-Catholic activity and conversion. Witches were
another target of the inquisition and were more often than
not condemned and burnt at the stake.
The Spanish Civil War of 1936 divided the nation,
villages and families between Communists and Fascists. In
Ernest Hemmingway's novel For Whom the Bell Tolls he
tells how Fascists of a small town were rounded up and made
to run a gauntlet through the street whilist being stoned
and beaten. The survivors were thrown off a bridge, the impressive
100ft high Puente Nuevo in Ronda which links the old
town and the new. 512 people were murdered here within the
first month of the civil war.
Cakes and nuns
The Carmelite nuns at the Convent in Ronda and the
surrounding area have remained true to a strange vow for centuries.
They are forbidden from looking anyone outside of the convent
in the face. The nuns receive egg yolks from the Sherry
bodegas, who use the whites in the process of maturing
Sherry. The nuns use the yolks to make sweet cakes or "dulces"
which they sell from a wooden carousel. The customer places
their money on the carousel which you place your money on,
tells the nuns what they would like . The nuns spins the carousel,
picks up the cash and out pop the cakes without the nun having
to look anyone in the face.
Bull fiesta
Plaza de Toros is the oldest bullring in all of Spain,
dating from the 18th century. During the Feria of Ronda
which takes place at the beginning of September, a bullfight
is held in the Plaza when the matadors wear traditional costumes
from the period of Goya. The event is known as the Goyesca
and is attended by people and celebrities from all over the
world.
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