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Pre-booking at least your first journey or two may be worthwhile
in the peak season, when boats get very busy as hordes of
tourists start to descend. The beginning of June through to
early September is the most crowded period, with July and
August the ultra-busy months. At these times you may have
trouble finding a ticket to some destinations at very short
notice. Be aware that Crete, Santorini and Mykonos
are the most popular spots.
Travelling by ferry
In the summer season, it's extra-important to reserve a sleeping
berth on overnight ferry trips if you're hoping for any kind
of relaxation. Space for snoozing can be like gold dust, and
you'll be fighting with locals and fellow backpackers for
floor space if you don't manage to book a sleeper. Spending
the night on deck can be a far more attractive proposition
than sleeping in the cafeteria, but at busy times even the
outside areas can be packed. This state of affairs is compounded
by the fact that some major routes focus their timetables
around overnight sailings, so you may have no option to travel
during daylight hours.
Whilst ferries can be hectic in the summer, services drop
away considerably during late autumn and winter, when connections
to lesser-visited spots can be impossible to come by. At any
time of year, it's worth checking exactly how many stops each
ferry is making - waiting an extra hour or two for a departure
on an 'express' trip could end up saving considerable time
overall.
You should also allow one day's leeway in your travel plans
- particularly if you're connecting to a flight - in case
a bout of bad weather leaves you stranded on one of the islands.
Even in the idyllic Mediterranean weather, storms can blow
up at any time of year and hit ferry schedules, so it's well
worth keeping an eye on the forecast.
Greek ferries aren't renowned for comfort or punctuality,
but you shouldn't have to rough it too much. Levels of comfort
and safety still tend to be a good deal higher than similar
services in South East Asia, for example. The usual commonsense
rules certainly apply; a supply of seasickness tablets is
essential as the open seas can get rough. If you're seriously
under the weather before boarding, you may want to delay your
trip, since the ferry toilet facilities may well be less than
gleaming. Bringing your own snacks is another good idea, as
on-board food prices are inevitably inflated.
Travelling by hydrofoil and air
You can reach the islands faster and more comfortably using
the hydrofoils that serve a number of busy routes. These are
ideal for saving time, but fares are around twice as expensive.
You also miss the opportunity to watch the breathtakingly
blue ocean go by, which in good weather conditions can be
a joy.
If you just don't have the sea-legs for aquatic travel, Olympic
Airways fly to many of the islands. Fares are reasonable (Athens
to Heraklion (Crete) will cost from 45 Euros each way) and
there are plenty of flights to chose from for the main destinations.
Indeed, taking a flight for part of your journey is positively
recommended if you're going from Athens to a far-flung spot
- travelling by sea to the Dodecanese or North and Eastern
Aegean groups can take 12 hours or more. You can't reach all
the islands directly from Athens, which may mean you'll find
yourself waiting to transfer ferries somewhere to get to outlying
locations. Taking a flight could cut down the time you spend
on these layovers and save you valuable sun-bathing time in
the long-run.
Staying in a pension
When you hit dry land at a Greek port, there's every chance
of being accosted by a tout plugging his relative's cheap
hotel. Needless to say, good pension rooms don't need to do
this unless it's low season, so unless you are happy to go
for a bottom-end room, it won't hurt to have a name in mind
to head for. Reputable travel agencies can usually be found
within walking distance of where the hustlers hangout, and
the golden rule of budget travelling applies as usual - don't
pay for a room until you've had a look at it!
Most pensions come with a room, en suite bathroom with a
basic shower. Breakfast is rarely provided for the cheaper
end rooms, but some family pensions have their own kitchens.
You can often barter down rates out of season if you are planning
to stay several nights, from as little as 15 Euro a night
in mid spring. This day rate can be up to five times this
in high season, and advanced booking is recommended. When
you get there, remember that tap water is not drinkable and
owing to poor sewage sytems in Greece you cannot flush anything
other than bodily fluids down the toilet. Paper, tampons etc.
will go in a bathroom bin which is always provided. Check
how often the room (particularly the bathroom) will be cleaned
if you are staying for a while, as the smell can be pretty
bad in the summer.
Eating and drinking
Chronic water shortages on some of the islands mean that you
should drink tap water only if you're certain beyond all doubt
that it's completely safe. Head for supermarkets rather than
obscenely-overpriced stalls in tourist areas. As with any
part of the world so well-visited, you can often save a fortune
on food, drink, taxis and anything else, by doing as the locals
do and avoiding the overdeveloped resort areas.
Finally...
... don't attempt to rush the Greek islands! If your time
is really scarce, a quick run around the Aegean islands just
off Athens - Aegina, Poros and Hydra, for instance - is perfectly
feasible in as little as one day. Going further afield in
a hurry could be frustrating. The distances between islands
are deceptively big and the pace of life can be very slow
once you get to where you're going. Remember you are operating
on 'Greek time'. |
