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Crete
To get the most out of Crete, be under no illusions about
its size. The largest Greek island simply cannot be explored
thoroughly in much less than a week, and to use Crete as a
destination for a quick lounge on the beach would be both
wasteful and impractical, given the number of attractions
on offer as well its distance from Athens.
The list of highlights is extensive: the charming city of
Chania with old Venetian buildings at its heart, the
dramatic Sammaria Gorge, heaving tourist hotspots like
Malia, Agias Nikolaos and the bustling capital Heraklion.
Emptier beaches and coves lie there to be discovered. Rent
a car and flee to the eastern and western ends of the island
where the crowds are less evident. The island is also rich
with historical points of interest, most famously the ruined
palace at Knossos - a world-class site of archeological
wonder.
AEGEAN / SARONIC GULF
If you don't have time to stray too far from Athens, a swift
tour round the nearby Saronic islands makes for a neat day
away from the capital's heat and congestion. Try Aegina
for its magnificent Temple of Aphaia, standing well-preserved,
high on a hilltop. Historic Hydra offers picturesque
villages and elegant yacht-filled seafronts - a little slice
of St Tropez in the Aegean sea, while Poros is a quiet
spot for relaxing in harbour-front cafes.
IONIAN
Kefalonia
Kefalonia's profile was raised when it became the setting
for the blockbuster book and film, 'Captain Corelli's Mandolin',
but this breathtakingly beautiful island, dramatically mountainous
with stunningly clear water off lovely coves, has remained
low-key. The remarkable Melissani underground lake
is a unique geological wonder, and the atmosphere is exceptionally
quiet compared with the likes of nearby Zakynthos.
Corfu (Kerkyra)
Corfu deserves its reputation as a hotspot for the British
package holiday brigade, but travellers averse to the beer
and fish 'n' chips scene certainly shouldn't be put off, for
the island's considerable size (33 by 15 miles) makes it quite
possible to escape the crowds. More rain falls on Corfu than
any other Greek island, resulting in the lush vegetation that
gives the place a tropical feel and puts it at stark contrast
to the parched scenery of other islands. The beaches are superb,
if a little over-populated in the summer months.
Ithaki
Most sensibly visited as a daytrip from Kefalonia, Ithaki's
claim to fame is its place in history as a key setting in
Homer's Odyssey. The fabled birthplace and home of
Odysseus is rocky, rugged and peaceful, and its beautiful
harbours have become popular places for mega-rich yacht crews
to hang out.
Zakynthos (Zante)
More developed than neighbouring Kefalonia, but just as easily
recommend - Zakynthos offers ample sunbathing possibilities
including the famous Shipwreck Beach - homt to a wreck
nestled in a perfect crescent of white sand, locked between
cliffs and perfect turquoise waters that pops up in every
Greek travel brochure. The island is also a breeding ground
for turtles, although sadly, the destruction which mass tourism
has wrecked on the beaches has dilapidated the turtle's breeding
grounds. If you are British and want some home grown fun,
there's no shortage of partying opportunities here.
CYCLADES
Andros
Andros is an attractive, green island, less tourist-centric
than Mykonos or Santorini but still with plenty of nightlife
on offer. An elegant atmosphere prevails, and the Shipping
Museum stands testament to the island's strong nautical
tradition.
Ios
Ios has all the picturesque bays, whitewashed houses and narrow
alleyways you could wish for - but it also gets more than
its fair share of young package tourists, seeing the sights
through a lager-induced haze. If that's what you're looking
for from a Greek island, Ios won't disappoint. If it all gets
too chaotic, the more cosmopolitan (but similarly crowded)
Santorini is nearby. |
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Delos
If the Mykonos experience leaves you yearning for something
a little more highbrow, hop over to nearby Delos, a tiny island
that's ideal for a daytrip but which doesn't allow any overnight
stays. Still one of the most important religious centres in
Greece, the island holds a lofty position in Greek mythology
for being the birthplace of Apollo and Artemis.
Rooted in more real history, from around the 7th Century BC
Delos became an important commercial hub, whose local wealth
allowed the construction of lush marketplaces, stadia, theatres
and public monuments. Delos is a living piece of ancient history,
easily rivaling Oympus or the Acropolis for its ancient monuments
and over worldly atmosphere of ancient spirits, and the indoor
museum also holds some remarkably well preserved ancient treasures.
You'll get a strong sense of that history as you wonder round
the UNESCO- protected ruins, although dodging the midday crowds
in peak season is strongly advised. For a sense of the layout
of this 'open air museum', just head for the top of Mount
Kythnos and peer down. |
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The Temple of Apollo on Delos island, a UNESCO site |
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Naxos
Regularly heaving with French and German tourists, Naxos is
the biggest island in the Cyclades. The cosmopolitan capital
of Chora boasts a huge Venetian castle, but for more
intimate tastes of Greek life there are plenty of small villages
where the tourist infrastructure has not yet taken root.
Paros-Antiparos
Paros has become one of the most visited islands in Greece.
Getting there from Athens takes a modest five hours, making
it a convenient and popular spot for both Greeks and foreigners
who want to spend their days frolicking in the ocean and their
nights hitting the bars. The bustling resorts of Paroika
and Naoussa provide ample opportunities for hedonism.
It can be hectic, but luckily Paros comes with its very own
antidote, the aptly-named Antiparos. Just ten minutes
away by boat, this peaceful island has just one village, Kastro,
and also boasts the intriguing cave at Agios Ioannis Hill,
full of stalactites and among the biggest in Europe.
Santorini
Santorini, or Thira (its Greek name), is a busy island
with vast numbers of visitors and no shortage of attractions
for them. This geological curiosity owes its present form
- basically one giant crater - to a vast earthquake thousands
of years ago, which may have had a hand in the origins of
the Atlantis legend. Accordingly, it's a strangely
beautiful island with a landscape of ancient lava. Unusually
coloured rocks and beaches lie waiting round every corner,
with picturesque gleaming white houses complementing the dark
volcanic panoramas. Island-hoppers should certainly plan to
arrange some sort of accommodation before reaching the island
in July and August, and not expect to cover it all on a miniscule
budget.
Kithnos
Kithnos is a stone's throw from Piraeus (you can be there
in three hours), making it a favourite destination for Athenians.
It's recently become popular with overseas travelers who head
for the port of Merihas and the charming capital Chora.
Dyopida is another attractive town, whilst party animals
will find their feet in Merihas. Kithnos' immaculately
clean beaches and hot mineral springs make it a worthy point
for a stopover en route to other Cycladic islands.
SPORADES
Skyros
Skyros, the biggest island in the Sporades, is a richly green
paradise for lovers of the outdoors. The famous native wild
ponies can still be paid a visit, although only about 150
survive from the population of 2000 that once used to live
and work in the fields. Gorgeous villages house strong traditions
of local crafts, still evident in workshops dotted around
the narrow cobbled streets. The capital is particularly proud
of its castle with a marble lion guarding the entrance. You'll
also find a statue of the war poet Rupert Brooke in
Eleftheria Square, and the Museums of Archeology
and Folklore are recommended. Nine miles from the capital,
Atsitsa is a curious secluded community where yoga,
tai chi, reflexology and other holistic activities are the
order of the day. If all that leaves you with a big appetite,
renowned local cheeses should fill the gap.
Skiathos
Underrated Skiathos has many adoring fans who seem to hail
from all corners of the world - visitors from Holland and
Sweden being particularly regular attendees. This is another
dramatically green island which, like Skyros, is great for
hiking. You'll find some truly phenomenal beaches and equally
spectacular nightlife, along with plenty of cultural points
of interest like the Evangilistria Monastery, where
revolutionaries holed up in the war of independence. Another
is the house of Greek writer Alexandros Papadiamantis,
whilst natural highlights include the Blue Grotto and
Lalaria, an impressive pebbly beach.
DODECANESE
Rhodes
You won't run out of things to do on Rhodes. The capital
offers a bustling modern city, next to a splendid medieval
old town. If castles and vast stone walls are your bag, you'll
be well catered-for. More winding narrow streets are to be
found at the resort of Lindos, and ruins are yet more
ancient variety at Kamiros. Rhodes is a massively popular
destination, but big enough that escaping the crowds is quite
possible. Look to the emptier west coast and island interior
to flee the masses, or make for notorious Faliriki
to experience first-hand the debauchery made famous by British
TV series 'Club Reps'.
Kos
Situated within spitting distance of the West coast of Turkey,
Kos has succumbed heavily to the tourist trade from two fronts.
As is so often, visitors cling primarily to an over-developed
coastline, leaving the relatively untouched interior that
can offer an easy escape route. The location means that near-Eastern
influences are evident in Kos' ruins, the centrepiece of which
are the remnants of the Asklepion. This 5th Century
BC teaching centre of of Hippocrates, founding father
of all things medical, is idyllically situated up a hill,
with splendid views of Kos and across the water to Turkey,
where the mega-resort of Bodrum is well-connected by
regular ferry services.
AEGEAN
Samos
Green and hilly Samos has a rugged interior that draws many
travellers. The island is nestled close enough to the coast
of Asia Minor that the magnificent ruins of Ephesus
make a feasible daytrip, and that ancient spectacle can compensate
for the scant remains of Samos' own Temple of Hera,
once among the largest in the Greek world. More up-to-date
reasons to visit include a fine selection of beaches and picturesque
towns, lush vineyards and a good infrastructure that isn't
too over-the-top. Be aware though that Samos is large, and
a car or motorbike rental is recommended.
Lesvos
Ancient female poet Sappho is probably Lesvos' most
favourite denizen, and fortunately the island hasn't been
altered beyond recognition in the several thousand years since
she lived there. Attractive villages and vast olive groves
give Greece's third largest island the sort of idyllic Mediterranean
feel that can elsewhere get suffocated beneath the throbs
of nightclubs. As well as the myriad charming towns waiting
to be explored, further highlights include the Byzantine castle
overlooking the capital of Mitilini and a fifteen million
year-old petrified forest.
Evia
Evia's great draw is the remarkable set of hot springs at
Edipsos. It's a hugely popular destination for Athens
residents using the pools' rejuvenating qualities to soak
up some of the frown-lines that life in the capital can bring
on. The journey to get there doesn't take long, but Evia itself
is huge - no Greek island except Crete is bigger - and on
maps it appears to be a lump of mainland. Like Skiathos, it
boasts exceptional natural beauty, and because of its size,
escaping the crowds isn't a problem. Don't miss the convent
of Galataki, perched amidst gorgeous scenery over the
site of an ancient Temple of Poseidon.
Limnos
Limnos' resident deity was Hephaestus, hurled there
from the heavens by Jupiter after a divinities family tiff.
It remains a good place to land, blessed with a landscape
still pleasingly untouched by package holidaymakers. The capital
Myrina is dramatically framed against Mount Athos,
whilst beaches are best at the bays of Plati and Kaspakas.
Not far from the capital is Therma, where spa waters
have regenerating powers.
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