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The nomads of Central Asia have dwelt in portable tents called
gers for thousands of years. These conical felt-covered
constructions which dot the Mongolian landscape are also known
as ‘yurts’, but this term was introduced by Western
invaders and is considered offensive to native Mongolians.
The design of the ger has evolved over time to suit the lifestyle
of its occupants: nomadic herdsmen can pack up their ger in
less then half an hour, ready to be transported to new grazing
grounds. What’s more, a ger offers comfortable, if basic,
accommodation all year long, providing warmth during the near-arctic
winters and shade from the scorching summer sun.
Although gers are rapidly being replaced by bricks and mortar
in the towns and cities, most Mongolians still prefer their
traditional abode and spend their summer holidays camping
out in a ger. Visitors to Mongolia will undoubtedly have the
opportunity to try out this unique way of life and are often
so taken with the experience that they buy a ger of their
own so they can replicate the experience back home.
Design and symbolism
Gers are assembled with a whole lot more in mind than simple
practicality. There’s a whole set of religious and traditional
customs which dictate the design and layout of the interior:
- The door of a ger always faces south. It is thought that
the spirit of the house resides on threshold, and guests should
always take care not to step on it to avoid offending their
host.
- There are no windows, but a hole known as a ‘toona’
provides ventilation and allows smoke from the heath or ‘golomt’
to escape through the roof.
- The hearth is the central feature of the ger. It symbolises
the family’s ancestral ties and the three stones on which
it is mounted represent the host, the hostess and the daughter-in-law
who is to bear the family an heir. It is forbidden and considered
and insult to stretch your legs towards the hearth, throw
rubbish into it or bring sharp objects close to it.
-The male quarters are situated to the west of the hearth
and is thought to be under the protection of Heaven, and the
female quarters to the east, under the protection of the Sun.
Individuals should move towards the appropriate area on entering
the ger.
- The family altar is situated along back wall, where Buddhist
paraphernalia and treasured family possessions are kept. The
area immediately before this is known as the ‘khoimor’
and it reserved for the elders. Guests of honour occupying
the space directly to their west.
Master craftsmen
It can take a craftsman as long as a month to build an authentic
Mongolian ger, but if it’s well made it should last a
considerable amount of time and withstand all weather conditions.
A ger is made using durable materials which are readily available:
the felt or animal hide covering is derived from the owner’s
sheep, wood for the frame is gathered in the forests and the
whole construction is tied together with rope made from human
or animal hair.
Where to bag a bargain
Gers have become quite a popular souvenir for visitors to
Mongolia in recent years and a hippy chic 'must have' accessory.
You should be able to pick one up easily in Ulaan Baatar
or tourist centres such as Dalanzadgad. Bear in mind,
however, that although gers are designed to be easily transportable
they'd hardly be considered hand baggage, and you will probably
need to arrange for yours to be shipped home.
What's it worth?
A large ger could cost you as much as $500, depending on the
size and quality of workmanship. You may also find that the
gers on sale to tourists, as well as those available in this
country, are less authentic than you might imagine. Due to
their increasing popularity at folk festivals a new breed
of ger has been created, made with coloured fabrics and cheaper
materials - make sure what you're buying is the type you really
want. You could, of course, construct your own back home using
materials you have to hand - it probably won't be as sturdy
as a real Mongolian ger but unless you're planning on taking
up permanent residence it should suit recreational purposes.
Fortunately for the budget traveller, or just one with less
space for carrying souvenirs home, Mongolia has mastered the
art of the tacky souvenir. An amazing selection of model gers
are available for you to chose from, and you can find them
in most of the country's tourist shops and department stores,
amongst other equally charming items.
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