|
A brief history of ancient Korea
Korea's turbulent history is little known. According to the
Koreans, the first of their kin was born in 2333 BC. Less
aesthetically-minded scientists believe South Korea was first
inhabited around 30,000 BC, when tribes from central and northern
Asia stumbled on the peninsula. Under constant pressure from
China, these tribes banded together to found a kingdom in
the 1st century AD. By 700 AD the Silla Kingdom of
South Korea was hitting its cultural stride, littering the
country with palaces, pagodas and pleasure gardens and influencing
the development of Japan's culture.
In the early 13th century, the Mongols reached South
Korea and gave it their usual scorched-earth treatment. In
1238, they invaded and looted Goryeo, destroying the
splendid Silla pagoda of Hwangnyongsa Temple. When
the Mongol Empire collapsed, the Choson Dynasty took
over and a Korean script was developed. In 1592 Japan invaded,
followed by China - the Koreans were routed and the Chinese
Manchu Dynasty took over.
Twentieth century blues
Turning its back on the cruel, cruel world, South Korea closed
its doors to outside influence until the early 20th century,
when Japan annexed the peninsula. The Japanese, who hung on
until the end of WWII, were harsh masters and anti-Japanese
sentiment is still strong in South Korea.
After the war, the USA occupied the south of the peninsula,
while the USSR took over the north. Elections to decide the
fate of the country were held only in the south, and when
the south declared its independence, the north invaded in
1950. The ensuing war lasted until 1953 and by the time the
war ended, two million people had died and the country had
been officially divided. One in seven families was split down
the middle as a result of this division.
After a few years of semi-democracy in the south, martial
law was declared in 1972. The next fifteen years roller-coastered
between democracy and repressive martial law, hitting a stomach-heaving
low in 1980 when 200 student protesters were killed in the
Kwangju massacre. By the late 1980s the country was
at flashpoint - student protests were convulsing the country
and workers all over South Korea were walking off the job
to join them. Among the demands were democratic elections,
freedom of the press and the release of political prisoners.
The government wasn't budging and civil war looked imminent
until, to everyone's jaw-dropping surprise, President Chun
suddenly decided that everything the protesters were asking
for was alright by him.
History lessons in Gyeongju
For a real insight into this turbulent past, head for Gyeongju.
For 1000 years, up until the 10th century, Gyeongu was the
capital of the Silla Dynasty. Nearly 1000 years later,
Gyeongju is an open-air museum masquerading as a small, provincial
town littered with ancient rubble. Those keen on Silla culture
or archaeology will be in heaven, investigating the remains
of temples, tombs, shrines, palaces, pleasure gardens and
castles, but more ordinary folk will probably find Gyeongu
only has a day's-worth of entertainment.
Sites to visit
In the centre of town, Tumuli Park is a huge walled
area with 20 royal tombs, one opened in cross section. A few
hundred yards away, Ch'omsongdae looks like a pile
of rocks but is actually one of the oldest observatories in
East Asia; the pile of rocks is a mathematical allegory for
the days and months of the year. Across the river in the south
of the city you'll find the Onung Tombs, the most ancient
tomb mounds in the area, and the elegant Posokjong Bower
Gardens. The crowning glory of Silla temple architecture
is Bulguksa, a magnificent temple built on a series
of stone terraces about ten miles from the town. The eaves
and internal painting of this gorgeous temple are one of the
artistic highlights of Asia. Stand on the highest level of
the temple and you'll look down over a rolling sea of tiles.
High above the temple, a seated Buddha (usually crawling with
tourists) gazes over Gyeongju from Seokguran Grotto.
Bulguksa Temple and Seokguran Grotto were listed on the UNESCO's
World Heritage List in 1995. |
