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Ethiopia is a land of diversity, a landscape of lush forests,
coffee plantations, deep ravines, grassy plains, snow-capped
mountains, waterfalls, rivers, and volcanic lakes, with people
who have over 80 different cultural and linguistic ancestries,
and in the cities that pit ancient against modern. The religious
and anthropological history of this relatively small piece
of land lays claim to the first human skeletal remains, and
to being the birthplace of the people who would influence
the development of Christianity and Islam. The modern inhabitants
are friendly, intelligent, and trying to save the country
from the economic oppression of a government that formerly
prohibited free trade.
Famine looms over Ethiopia, not because of barren soil or
lack of farming technique, but because the mass transportation
necessary to convey food from productive areas to those less
so is not available, nor is widespread technological communication.
Ethiopia was only briefly occupied by the Italians from 1936-41,
never was it colonised by a European country, a unique cultural
advantage. |
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Mursi Tribes Women
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Haile Selassie was emperor until 1974, inspiring the
creation of the Rastafarian religion, as they believed
him to be their saviour. Unfortunately he was assassinated
and the oppressive government began its reign. Tourists were
formerly prevented from visiting Ethiopia because of the Mengistu
regime (until 1991) and the war over boundary lines with Eritrea
(now independent from Ethiopia).
Ethiopian culture is uniquely fascinated with languages, religion,
coffee, art and information. Its towns are bedecked with ancient
churches and Mosques, the parks with animals found nowhere
else in the world and the country with a civilisation, multifarious
as no other.
Cash
Ethiopian currency is the birr.
1 birr = approx 9 U.S. dollars or Euros or £6 sterling.
For up to date currency information, check the Currency
Converter.
The birr is divided into 100 cents and comes in coin divisions
of 1,5, 10, 25, and 50. Bank notes come in divisions of 1,5,
10,50, and 100.
There is an airport tax of 6 birr on local travel and 20
birr on international travel. It is necessary to declare the
amount of money you are taking into the country on arrival,
keeping a record of your transactions along the trip, in order
to be able to convert the birr back to your currency upon
departure.
Although there is black market trading it is not advisable
to use it; you're likely to be ripped off. Instead, the National
Bank of Ethiopia provides bureau de change services, but
with scepticism towards travellers checks, and a rejection
of credit cards. Be prepared to carry cash and be careful.
Budget accommodation can be found for a few dollars ($2-3
per night), without hot water. A shower will cost a few birr
more. Luxury hotels are around $50 - $60 per night. Buses
from the airports can be expensive (up to $10) but are worth
it to avoid the often long and gruelling trek.
People
The main ethnic groups of Ethiopia are the Ahmara
and Tigray, originating from the northern plateaus
and grasslands and the Oromo, from central and south
Ethiopia. These make up about 70% of the population, which
comprise in total around eighty different ethnicities. Ninety
percent of the population are agrarian workers. Animism,
Chistianity, and Islam have all been in Ethiopia
for generations although Christianity and Islam share about
80% of the country's religious following. Ethiopians are friendly
and generous. They are generally welcoming to foreigners as
they are relatively unexposed to European colonization. Italy
occupied Ethiopia between 1936-1941 leaving a legacy of a
language and pasticcerias, but without any resentment.
Travel
Ethiopian Airlines have a good internal service to
other major cities. Addis Ababa to Lalibela, Gondar, Bahar
Dar, or Axum is an easy trip by plane between $50-150. It
is necessary to reconfirm all onward flights after a stopover
and to make sure of the departure time one day before the
flight.
Despite the scenic advantages of a bus, it can offer
a stiflingly hot and slow ride. Buy the ticket the day before
to avoid the ticket touts that jack up the prices. Inside
Addis Ababa, buses have unknown routes as the streets have
no names but a personal cab can be hired for a mere 25 birr
a day.
The Addis- Djibouti railway provides a reliable service
in the north of the country, but at $11/7/3.50 for 1st/2nd/3rd
class, it is much more expensive than the buses which have
more interesting routes.
Food
Ethiopian stews (wat) come in the mild (alicha)
or spicy (kai) variety and are scooped up with the
traditional pancake (injera) made of the endemic teff
flour. Common meat dishes are chicken (doro), lamb
(beg), fish (assa), and fried meat (tibs).
The more delicious vegetarian foods are mixed lentils and
chickpeas (shuro), black lentils (missir), chickpeas
(kik), or a mixed plate found in fasting times (ye
som migib).
Kifto, raw minced meat, is a traditional dish best
avoided if your system isn't used to the kinds of life that
can be found in it (i.e. worms). The coffee is excellent and
world class, and should be accompanied by the traditional
ceremony to reap an intense Ethiopian experience. It is best
to sterilize all water, because much of it is infected with
bilharzias, or faeces. The sparkling bottled water (ambo)
is safe. Fresh vegetables and fruits must be washed, as there
is no pesticide control; despite the pesticide there is still
a chance of picking up liver fluke in your salad.
Language
Amharic of semitic origin, is the official language,
spoken by about 1/3 of the population. Oromo, Tigrina and
Arabic are also widely spoken. English is the language
of education, and can be heard in Addis Ababa, although many
people throughout Ethiopia know enough to communicate.
Climate
Ethiopia has a cool region in the north on the high plateau
and around Harar, a temperate region in the center
plateaux and a hot region in the south (below 5000ft). In
the highlands and around Addis Ababa the temperature
remains between 80F (26C) and 45F (7C), although average temperatures
are usually around 63F (17C). The temperature drops sharply
in the late and afternoon, and the evening is cool. It rarely
gets down to freezing, but the coldest times are in January
and December and the rainy season (kremt),mid-June
to mid-September. The dry season (bega) is from October
to June with light rains (belg) often arriving from
February to March. The rain falls heaviest in the south-west,
70 inches per year. The lowlands of the South East are the
areas most affected by drought.
Dress
Addis Ababa is a modern city, with the inhabitants often
dressed as westerners. Otherwise expect long draped cotton
fabric with rich colors. During festivals, such as Timkat,
the congregation wears white, thereby highlighting the priests
purple and gold religious wear. It's not advisable for women
to expose midriffs, knees or shoulders. Skirts or dresses
are more appropriate than trousers for women. Men should not
go topless and trousers are more appropriate than shorts.
Not to worry though, the people aren't harsh on tourist faux
pas. They'll just think you're silly.
Health
Bilharzias are in all water except for Lake Longano,
so sterilize your supply. It is possible to contract Malaria
and Yellow Fever in the lowlands. Ethiopia is also a high
risk for HIV/AIDS. Yellow Fever immunizations are required
as is Cholera if you are travelling from an infected
area within 6 days of your arrival to Ethiopia. The U.N. recommends
immunization against Typhoid, hepatitis A/B, tetanus, poliomyelitis,
and meningitis. Foreigners working in Ethiopia
often contract infectious hepatitis, so its recommended to
take gamma globulin injections just before you arrive.
Visas
Visas are necessary for everyone except Kenyan nationals.
Proof of sufficient funds or onward journey may be required.
Visas are single entry and cost $40 or more if you plan on
visiting Eritrea or Djibouti. Visa extensions are available
at the immigration office in Addis Ababa (off Churchill Ave)
and cost $20. Exit visas are required for stays over 30 days.
up
to date Visa information
Another Place, Another Time
Ethiopians are eight years behind the Gregorian calendar;
the Julian calendar has thirteen months in a year. Kelayleetu
time, a different way of numbering the hours, starts at sunrise,
12 am noon would be six o'clock, and so on. Work this out
in advance, or you could easily end up missing the only train
of the day.
Meskrem (New Year): 11 September-10 October;
Tikemt: 11 October-9 November;
Hidar: 10 November-9 December;
Tahsas: 10 December-8 January;
Tir: 9 January-7 February;
Yekatit: 8 February-9 March;
Megabit: 10 March-8 April;
Miyazya: 9 April-8 May;
Ginbot: 9 May-7 June;
Sene: 8 June-7 July;
Hamle: 8 July-6 August;
Nahase: 7 August-5 September;
Paguemen: 6-10 September.
The Government's fiscal year runs from 1 Hamle (8 July) to
30 Sene (7 July). |
